Expand in Malawi

The drive down to Malawi was completely painless, and went without a hitch. We crossed the border with considerable ease on the Sunday morning, and after stopping off for lunch quickly, we headed straight towards Nkhata Bay, and our partner charity ‘Expand’. The journey once more was incredible, with Lake Malawi in full view as we climbed mountains, and evaded road side baboons. The road surfaces were good, and it wasn’t long before we were in Mzuzu, and it was time to veer off the main road towards the Chisala School.

Mr Banda was roadside waiting for us, as the roads went from tarmac to dust track, and after a short, and quite incredible drive through the mountains we spotted him. Chisala school had been funded, and supported by the ‘Build Malawi’ project in 2008, in conjunction with ABC (Action for the Benefit of Children). Tanya Clarke, who has been my contact person, was the Project Manager, and now she has developed the NGO ‘Expand’ to help continue the work of the initial project.

In essence, what the Build Malawi project did, in 2008, was to assist the local community, in an extremely poor and remote area of Malawi, to build a new government primary school. It was commented to us on several occasions how difficult it had been before for some children, especially the younger ones, to get to school, as not only did they have to walk between five to ten miles each day, but also the rainy season complicated things further, with many paths blocked. As a result of this, often children didn’t begin school until the age of 8 or 9, or even older, and indeed many didn’t come at all. The difficulties in this respect had meant that very few members of the community had a chance to directly observe the benefit of school, and with very small numbers going on to secondary education, their reservations were understandable.

Now, admittedly, we struggled a little bit at first, to fully understand and decipher the issues facing the community before, and the benefit now. The school was remarkably built, with solar panels powering everything, from the water pump, which gave a good clean water supply, to the electricity, which wasn’t a given in several other schools. The hygiene levels were good, and with a fully stocked library, the project had definitely succeeded in building an excellent environment for learning. The questions we had, however, were based upon the issue of walking to school. Both Phil and myself walked to our primary schools, and in my case certainly the school was far from perfect. We had some classrooms in temporary trailers, the school was very often vandalised, teacher shortages meant we had to combine year groups, and the general atmosphere was pretty drab. We did, however, have computers, and resources, and more than enough teaching aids. It seemed, in perhaps the same way that religious buildings are often ludicrously over elaborate, that perhaps their was far too much attention on the building in which we learn, and not the depth of the learning itself.

Phil and myself began to discuss this issue. It sat uncomfortably with us both, and we weren’t quite sure what to make of it. Had our grandparents been here to here the complaints about walking to school, they would have given them a good kick up the back side, and told them to get on with . This isn’t of course the beginning and end of my opinion. I am by no means suggesting that they are making a fuss over nothing. It was just the method. Would it not be possible to spend money on a cycle to school scheme, supplying bikes and supervisors to assist younger children. How about some other form of public transport? Would it be possible to fund roaming libraries, to supplement schools in a certain area? My mind was running, and then it clicked.

What Chisala School does, simply, is give pride to a community. It becomes (perhaps like a church), the focus point of a village, and something they look up to. It gives an inherent importance towards education (like perhaps religion), and helps to encourage parents and children alike to make full use of it. It has reaped positive results, and some, very few, but some have gone on to secondary education, and thus the community can directly see the tangible benefits of education. It is a young project, and maybe after a few generations, the change it has brought will be even more apparent, but already it seems that perhaps education, and knowledge are becoming valued entities. I hate to continue this rather self fulfilling analogy too much, but perhaps education, like religion in the past, is becoming the focus and the foundations of rural African society. I myself am agnostic, and see little reward in organised religion. Perhaps over the coming years, we will see the church buildings turned into schools, and education, knowledge, intelligence, and wisdom, will replace religion as the key component of progression and development. Personally, I hope so.

So, in the end we left semi-satisfied, not with the project itself, which was excellent. The initial building process, and the manner in which it was carried out was incredibly amicable. Community involvement was extremely high, creating a collaborative effort between donor and beneficiary. The pride of the community had been enhanced by this, and also the progression of the school, with new toilet blocks, sports fields, vegetable plots etc, were a direct result of this approach. I am confidant that this approach with ‘Expand’ will continue to aid the progression of education, helping it to further become of core importance within rural communities in Africa. The issues, and there are issues, are largely on the higher, deeper, and more long-term level.

Again we see an issue with the progression of children from primary to secondary education. I don’t know the statistics exactly, but I would say, from my experience that it is not even nearly 10%, certainly in rural areas, and this is really poor. It’s not just in Malawi, but in several countries we have passed through. Secondary education in the UK, and I presume much of Europe is compulsory, but many children even with an incredible urge to study, and with good levels of achievement at primary school, simply are not able to go. It’s depressing. I would quite happily tomorrow, kick out every half-arsed English secondary school student (of which I was one) out of their schools and replace them with these children, in my opinion to the benefit of everyone. This of course isn’t an overly progressive solution, but a solution all the same. Knee-jerk reactions aside, more does need to be done, and certainly more of a focus on secondary education is desperately in need.

After this project, at the end of September, I will begin work with EEF, who I spoke about previously, and who do aid children with secondary education. Their model is simple. It is a simple expansion of one man’s faith and inspiration, from one boy’s struggle and potential. IT could so easily (relatively), be employed as a concept in other countries, and indeed other areas of Ethiopia. The only other large, and established project, I am personally aware of, is the Starehe Schools in Nairobi, which again I have already talked about. It is understandable, sure, that initial focus, in respect to education in Africa, was one of ‘lets please get these poor, rag bearing, muddy faced children into a school’, but that is simply not it anymore. We have become, or at least are becoming to view Africa, and Africans as the equals that they are. No longer is it enough to help quash our guilt by helping them to speak English, giving them a place to make friends and to act like children, and perhaps enabling employment in the tourism sector. It is about time that the charity sector, grew some balls, and realised that it is now, that these children deserve the opportunities that we all have. Not, to go to primary school, and then surrender to a life of subsistence farming, or to learn English and enter the proverbial bull ring of tourism, but to be allowed to dream, and have at least a small chance of achieving them.

I’m an idealist, true, but not an unconsidered ‘lets change the world now’ idealist, but rather one who believes that only be starting with the end goal in sight will it ever be achieved. Models like EEF, enable a few (approximately 40) girls and boys, each year to get the secondary education they deserve, which includes the resources and the environment to study at home. It’s not a huge amount, but the focus on the most vulnerable and highest achieving segment of society enables the impact to be much larger, and the success rights after six years have proved this. Now, three of their students have gone on to achieve full scholarships at what is arguably the most resource rich, and progressive further education facility in the world, the New York University, in Dubai. All of the other students to complete the process have gone on to further education, and another couple recived offers from American Universities. It’s a start, but at least it’s a completed vision. It is now up to the individual students, and the governments of the countries to take things a step further.

The Ethiopian government, like many others take control over further education to a ludicrous extent. In Ethiopia, you don’t get to choose your field of study (unless of course daddy is rich), and 70 % of all students are forced to study Engineering. You could call it shortsighted, but it’s an awful lot more than that, it’s outright stupidity. A nation’s progress is achieved by; writers, scientists, philosophers, musicians, sportsmen, engineers, politicians, doctors, nurses, psychologists, and many more credible professionals. How is a nation of Engineers going to successfully aid development, with the support of privileged politicians looting more of their natural resources? It makes no sense. In Zambia, I saw an advert for applying to University, in which it stated that a non-refundable fee of $60 was needed with the application, regardless of whether the application is successful or not. Now, most Zambians can’t afford $60, let alone the course fees that they would be left with if they were successful.

So, in essence, in an attempt to cut short a potentially never-ending barrage of ranting, there are several things that need to be addressed. Firstly NGOS, charities, volunteer organisations, aid workers etc need to, on a much higher level, have real change in mind. It is no longer enough to gently push people in the right direction. We are here, that much is concrete. We are here, because currently we live in an overly privileged society, and others the opposite. We are not here as a colonial presence, or because we know better, but because we are offering a hand of support to others, who often through no fault of their own, currently need it. But that hand of support needs to come from a strong arm, with a strong mind, and a will to attribute to real change. It needs to be willing to fight to achieve goals, and to stand up to any obstacles that stand in their way. It also needs to aim to one day be able to let go, and this should be a part of the process from the start. The second thing is much more complex, but not altogether impossible. Governments need to be pushed, they need to be prodded, their doors need to be worn thin where knuckles have knocked against them. Communities need to be supported in this, and encouraged to stand up for their rights. Ex-pats (as they are rather anarchically referred to), also have a responsibility to stand up to the powers that, whilst they are living and working in such countries, represent them also. Corruption, greed, selfishness, ignorance, and elitism are not accepted aspects of African politics; they are a vile intoxication, which can be eradicated.

Another key approach, which I have not yet mentioned is that of cooperation. The concept of ‘Patchwork World’ and the ‘Real Way Down’ project, were built on the foundations of the word. The ability for organisations to work together to achieve shared visions and goals is of upmost importance. It provides steps of progression and development, and can thus successfully see the impact climb from the minimum to the maximum. Each and every charity that supports a community, is merely a step on a ladder. The only way real change, and real progression can be achieved is by combining this step with further steps. Some make up rungs on the ladder, and others support to hold it up, and to aid the ascent. Charities need to work together, not only to increase the scope of their influence, but also to discover where the gaps lie, and thus create a full picture, a jigsaw, with pieces missing.

Anyway, regardless of all the above, the scenery had turned Phil into the happiest man alive!

Futuresense in Tanzania

After a comfortable nights sleep, it was an early start, and a 45-minute morning stroll to the ‘Futuresense’ head office, where we met with Sarah, the country manager. We promptly had a meeting to discuss the programme for the following three days, and decided that we would spend two filming in Arusha, and one in the Pare Mountains, on our way back cross country to meet the road down to Malawi. Initial thoughts were extremely positive, and Sarah was really great and accommodating to our needs. Immediately, I felt a sense that ‘Futuresense’ had very much moved in a positive direction since I had last encountered their work, seven years previously.

Our first port of call was to visit a team of Durham University students who were on a volunteer-tourism break. This included 4-days climbing Kilimanjaro, a weeks rest in Zanzibar, two weeks volunteering with Futuresense, at two separate projects, and finally a 4-day safari. Now I, like most people who see themselves as more long-term development workers, have often questioned the impact, or indeed the benefit of short-term volunteering. I did it in Tanzania in 2004, and I had to think long (still thinking), and hard about the intent, benefit, and indeed necessity for such an experience. I do, however, believe I am in a good position to argue in favour, as it catalysed a great passion in myself to continue with such work, and in truth helped to inspire this project.

As Sarah stated to us very strongly in her interview, volunteering is not always good, and indeed can at times even be detrimental. The importance lay very much in the management, and the understanding of an organisation to place people at suitable projects. Short-term volunteers (2 weeks or less) were most likely to be placed on building projects, where some good old elbow grease could really create positive results and fast. The team of Durham students were a fine example of how many hands can really make a fast and positive impact. They were working at a primary school, and an orphanage, and they were all motivated by the fact that they could, even in just two weeks, leave a truly positive mark on a community.

In addition to building projects, Futuresense helps with the supply of volunteer teachers. These can both be young, and inexperienced, who would teach primary and pre-primary, and qualified teachers, who would teach in government schools. Again, with a chronic shortage of funding, and a lack of teachers, both approaches can really make a positive addition to the local teaching staff. On the negative side, as was pointed out by Sarah, it is difficult to maintain a consistency in this respect. It is hard to ensure that a school always has support, and thus is difficult to implement regularity in the child’s education. A solution to this is not easy, as it is difficult to ensure both quality and long-term teachers. The only real answer lies in the individuals, and a motivation for trained teachers to commit to full years (or more), of voluntary teaching. Perhaps with more funding, these volunteers could be supported financially, and this would act as a further incentive to them.

Finally, Futuresense supports micro-finance business proposals, based on the fact that in Africa, a little can go a long way. Just $50-100 can facilitate an individual to set up a small business, helping to bring extra income into the household. These grants were often given to women, although not exclusively, and in this respect also helped to empower women within the community. We have seen on so many occasions now, how this can truly be a catalyst towards great community development. Within these societies, women really gain a huge amount of pride and confidence, by being able to provide for their family. Some of the projects we visited included Chicken breeding, restaurants, and shops, and all had seemingly become successes, at their own relative levels. It is a true example of a little going a long way.

After two days filming several programmes in Arusha, we headed out of Arusha, and firstly to the ‘Nice Orphans Centre’, just outside the city. This was truly a sign of a grassroots community initiative, and clearly the volunteers who had been placed there had made a huge impact. All of the ladies talked about past volunteers, with huge smiles on their faces, and although this was a project still with a long way to go, it was great to see a community, with just a little helping hand, reaching out to support those with nothing. We donated a few books, clothes, and school uniforms to them, which had kindly been donated to us, and again it was a sign of how a little can go a long way. With just a little support, be it financial, through volunteers, building, or indeed equipment, this small, community driven orphan centre, could help to transform the lives of so many. It is also again, an example of the importance of cooperation, as with the support of other such organisations, so much more could be achieved in the future.

Next it was time to wave goodbye to our fantastic community guide, Sam, and head onwards to the Pare Mountains, where we would be visiting ‘Urafiki Usangi’, another business programme set up and supported by Futuresense. Kate, an accounts manager back in the UK, had been volunteering there for approximately two months, and was driven by using her expertise to assist the project. The road up to the home-stay where Kate was based, and where we would spend the night, was interesting to say the least. It was a winding road up the side of the mountain, passing through villages, and blessing us with unbelievable views all around. Eventually the road steepened massively, and at one point, after three attempts, Phil, and an unknown helper, even had to give the car a little encouraging push. After, a huge amount of anxiety, and with the clutch giving off a familiar scent, we made it up the mountain, and to the wonderful home, where we would regret only having time to spend one night.

After, an early night, we ventured down to the village, where the workshop was located, and met the local manager, as well as the two young and talented sewers. The project produced a selection of great products, including laptop cases, iphone cases, bags, purses, and other such items. Currently the products are largely sold to volunteers both in the Pare Mountains, and at the Arusha HQ, but plans are to increase marketing to a wider audience. Kate had spent much of her time sorting out the accounts, and putting a financially viable plan into action, and had also focussed a lot of time and attention on quality control. They were hopeful of targeting the more high-end tourist sector, and thus it was important to produce good quality products on a constant basis. I was so impressed by the products, that I purchased myself a great little Iphone case, and placed an order for a laptop case, to be hand delivered by Kate, back in London. This project not only helps to give employment to young women in the Pare Mountains, but also has huge potential to grow into a scheme, which could help to fund future Futuresense initiatives. Kate was a fine example of how specific expertise, utilised in the right way, can really offer a great deal to a developing community, and again, a relatively short stay can make huge impacts.

As time was getting on, we had to wave goodbye to Kate and the girls, and head onwards towards Malawi. My lasting impression of Futuresense, in Tanzania at least, was that under the management of Sarah, they were making hugely positive strides. It cemented my opinion that volunteering was a part of development, which with careful and experienced management could be hugely rewarding. It is very possible for volunteer placements to be both pointless and detrimental, however there is also a great potential for them to work. I would encourage any individual looking to volunteer abroad to do so, but also to ensure that they set themselves realistic goals, and truly make the most of their time, to ensure a positive impact on both themselves and the community in which they are placed.

Back in Pangani!

After a brief ferry crossing to Mombassa's southside, we were on the road to the Tanzanian border, and Pangani. My nerves obviously passed onto the vehicle, and with Tanzania only 20 miles away, the electrics blew, and we grinded to a halt. Once again, however, luck was on our side, and somehow in the middle of nowhere, we had broken down 20 yards short of a makeshift roadside sign, saying 'Mechanic Services'. After a push down to the makeshift garage, which was simply a yard, next to a half built house, Edward began an assesment of the vehicle. It was dark, and getting late, so we decided to camp in the yard, and cycled into town to buy some fish and potatoes, which one of Edward's assistant's cooked up for us.

The following day, we had to catch a matatu (small bus) into a town approximately 30 miles away to purchase some replacement cable, and then head back to begin the repair. It wasn't too long before the car was up and running again, and with the light fading, we decided to hit the road. The electrics weren't altogether right, and we now had no functional speedometer, fuel gauge, or battery light. We did, however, have a car that served its purpose, and for now that was enough. We set off expecting to find the border closed, and had planned to cross early the next morning. When we arrived, however, it was very much open, and so we decided to press on towards Pangani, with the aim of arriving there by arround 11pm.

As we passed through Tanga, the closest city to Pangani, I tried desperately to scout my memory banks for familiarity, but found none. We then headed down the dirt track towards Pangani, and it brought back memories from seven years previous, when I had ventured down the same road in a dala dala (small bus), and where I had experienced my first taste of Africa. We arrived into Pangani late, and in the darkness the town was barely recognisable. There were hundreds of new brick houses, a tarmac road, shops, restaurants, and numerous other new developments. My barings were confused by one of the major landmarks (an area of grass), having turned into a residential street, and after half an hour of being unsure, finally we asked the patrolling police vehicle, and were directed to the Yoeza household. It turned out I had directed us just one house short, and when I saw Mama, and entered the yard, all familiarity came rushing back.

I had promised 7 years ago that one day I would return, and it is important to me to always keep a promise. It had been a lot longer than I had first hoped, and imagined, but once more I was in Pangani, and with the Yoeza family. Mama was the same, and although the house had been improved it was very much like how I remembered it. Me and Phil took residence in my old room, and after Rich (Mama's son, who had been 14 last time, and was now 21), popped in to say hello, we all headed off to bed. Both Rich and Mama were the same as I remembered. Rich was of course older, and taller, but he still had the same manner, which I had liked so much before. It felt good to be back, and I was excited to explore the following day.

The next day we woke early, and after breakfast headed to see my old haunt, 'Pangedeco'. I had spent many an afternoon, reading or socialising there, and had half expected to find it unaltered. It was, however, unrecognisible, closed down, and overgrown. It was sad to see, but in truth it had been semi-neglected even when I was there. We soon discovered that there was a nice new campsite, bar, and restaurant just next door, and tourists weren't falling over each other, but neither was it 'dead' like all tourist resorts had been 7 years previously. Similarly, the beach was no longer completely deserted, with a few tourists exploring. It felt strange. In the two months I had previously spent there, I had seen only two tourists. Now, there was at least five times that number, and some even ventured into the town itself. It wasn't the stuff of my nightmares, but it was a small step towards it.

That night, I had to think. It was confusing. It was development. I had seen it with my own eyes. New houses, improved infrastructure, road networks, shops, restaurants, general living conditions, but somehow, somewhere it also seemed to have lost a little of it's soul. Although I had bumped into a few old friends, many more had moved on, and a high percentage of the new residents had arrived from the island of Pemba, bringing with them a whole new character to the town. It was nice, and they were lovely people, but it was different, and I didn't know how to feel about that. Pangani had changed form a poor fishing town, to what I can only describe as a soon to be thriving coastal destination. It had a new island feel, and I sensed very much that tourism, both international and local, would soon be abundant in the area. It was a good thing, it was progression. I simply had to get over my cynicism, and reluctance to embrace such a sector as wholly positive devlopment.

I had an issue with tourism in Africa. It's not a wholly justified one, but it was there all the same. Rich, who had impressed me so much with both his level of intelligence and character was now working as a waiter in a safari lodge, and it was good, it was work, an income, a livelihood, but it was also a service - a service to rich, and largely western tourists. If Pangani did become the resort town I half expected it too, it would no longer have that sense of the 'real' that I fell in love with. Tourism tended to create a rather unpleasant, competitive, and often invasive nature amongst people, it seemed to widen rather than reduce the gap between the natives and the outsiders. I hated every time I was approached as a tourist anywhere in Africa. It was an extension of the 'begging' culture. I wanted to scream 'I am here as a human being, as someone you can befriend, and talk to, not as a an outsider taking a peek into your difficult, but somehow enviable world.' It is unfair, I know, my opinion is massively flawed, but it was also massively real. It made me look forward and crave for the day that i learn to speak good enough Swahili, Amharic, Lua etc to not be seen as one of the outsiders anymore. I understood how important tourism was to the economy of many Africa countries, but even more so it reminded me of how important a conscious and ethical approach was to its development. It was the responsibility of both tour companies, resorts, and the tourists themselves to make the sector a positive one, bringing people together, and not reinstating that horrible presence of master and servant, that so deeply sickened me.

Ranting aside, we spent a lovely couple of days in Pangani, exploring both sides of the river, and catching up with old friends. Thomas (Mama's older son) had returned from Arusha, especially to see me, and although he was barely recognizable both physically and mentally, it was great to see him again. We had formed a special bond on my last visit, and although it didn't immediately click back and that familiarity was almost completely lacking, it certainly was important to me to see him again after so long. After our third night, Phil, Rich, Thomas, and myself jumped in the car together to head to Arusha, and for us our partner charity 'Futuresense'. I had volunteered with them (then 'Mondo Challenge') seven years previously, and so in a way it was my experience with them that had inspired the 'Real Way Down' itself. I had some negative preconceptions from my previous experience, but had observed a great deal of progression online, and hoped that this too would be recognizable on the ground.

After dropping Rich off in a town en route, to catch his bus back to work, and Thomas off at home, we met up with Gady, the elder son of the family we would be staying with in Arusha, and headed to our homestay. A lovely house on the outskirts of the city, we had the luxury of a comfortable bed each, and this would be crucial with a busy week ahead.

Miche Bora - Mombassa (via Nairobi)

After a straight forward drive to Nairobi, we very quickly found ‘Jungle Junction’, which is famed in overlanding circles. We soon found out why. With camping very cheap, wi-fi Internet, onsite mechanic and workshop, great communal areas, hot showers, and good breakfasts, it really was a great place for both us and the car to recharge our batteries. It was also an ideal place to catch up on some work, and upload the latest blogs, photos, and videos to our website.

We eventually decided to stay for three nights, and this really gave us time to do everything we needed to do before heading on to Mombassa., as well as having a little peak at what Nairobi had to offer. The car was running smoothly, as were we, and the plan was to arrive in Mombassa late on Sunday evening, camp, and then meet up with Sonery, our contact at ‘Mustard Seed’ the following morning. For once, everything went to plan.

After arriving in Mombassa, we soon found a campsite, and again the prices were invitingly low at little over $4/night. After a quick bite to eat at one of Mombassa’s less classy establishments, we were well ready for bed, and soon were sound asleep. In the morning we discovered that we had in fact camped a stones throw from the beach, and thus enjoyed a slow breakfast with a nice refreshing sea breeze. After a quick wake up swim in the Indian Ocean, we set off to meet Sonery, who by chance, was situated only a couple of miles away in Mgongeni, a poor ‘village’ suburb of Mombassa, where we would spend the next four days.

A British couple, Geoff and Rita Fowler, had visited Mgongeni whilst on holiday in September 2008, and were shocked at the conditions of the village. They visited a school which was being run by two young men in appalling conditions and knew they had to help the community. They returned 4 months later having registered as a charity with the intent of setting up a school and supporting the community. In September 2009 they set up a school with three teachers in two rooms in another school. Then in January they moved to another rental building with three rooms. All this time they were paying for these unqualified teachers to receive in-service teacher training as well as paying salaries, rent and all other expenses.

Eventually, after spending six months in this building it became obvious that they just would not have room in January 2011 for the new intake so in September 2010 they moved to a bigger building, and that is where we found them; at the ‘Miche Bora’ (Mustard Seed) Primary School. Having begun life with just 26 students, they now boasted 97, with five teachers. The school building was great, with adequate space for all of the children, and very high hygiene levels throughout. They had a donor who supported them with a feeding programme, and thus the children received both a mid morning snack, and lunch, which is vital, as many would receive no food at home until dinner. It was mentioned to us on several occasions that this limited the attention spans of the children, but now they were full of beans, and ready to learn.

Resources were also of a high standard. Geoff and Rita had written a successful bid to a charitable trust and they had been able to buy plenty of toys, and learning materials. The children all seemed very keen to learn, and the play times were a partially organised chaos, where children would skip or kick footballs, and seemed to be having a great time. There is, however, still further room for development within the school. Sonery told me that the plan is to expand by one class each year to accommodate up to grade 8 (the final year of primary school in Kenya when the children are 14). As well as being a teacher Sonery is the paid coordinator for Mustard Seed Project. Her drive is really inspiring, and she has a belief, which makes myself in turn have faith that one day her vision will become a reality.


As I mentioned earlier, Mgongeni, is a poor suburb of Mombassa, and has been largely neglected for a long period of time. But the school has helped. Micha Bora have a policy of keeping the number down to 25 per class. Costs can sometimes be really high in other schools and they have no resources or furniture. Although the government schools claim to be free for 7 – 14 year olds, things such as uniforms, books, and exams can still make it a huge expense, and thus many parents choose not to send their children to school at all. Micha Bora School helps to attract parents in such a position, with lower fees, which can be paid throughout the month, and not in one lump sum. In addition to this, there are no exam costs, and many resources are provided to the children by the school The feeding programme is another big attraction to both parent and child, and helps to keep the attendance at a high level.

It’s not only education, which is lacking, but also many other such basic necessities. Mustard Seed also have a firm focus on empowerment. They have also built a well and got mosquito nets for the community and the local trustees worked hard to get street lighting installed. Mustard Seed have a computer training centre and have also given 120 women business training skills and started health training. All of the work that we witnessed had made a huge impact on the community, and their was a renewed belief and sense of purpose within many of its residents. One of the village elders said that they were thankful to Rita and Geoff for showing them that they shouldn’t just sit and wait for development, but also stand up and demand for it. This attitude was an extremely positive one, and one, which I believe holds Mgongeni in good stead for the future


Although I felt a huge amount of optimism for the area, there is still an awful lot of work to be done. The football team, who I spent a lot of time with (including playing a game), need more equipment and better facilities though I believe that this is in hand. There is a huge issue with the dumping of waste. Rita and Geoff have been negotiating with the owner of the land used for dumping in order to use it for agriculture but I believe he changed his mind at the last moment. There also needs to be an improved ratio of children going on to secondary education. In the last 2 years Rita and Geoff have spent 6 months in the community to help with developing a sustainable approach to both vocational training and business but there is a long way to go. The foundations are in place, and personally I adored my time in Mgongeni. We stayed in Mustard Seed Trustee, Amir’s family home, and found the experience incredibly humbling. Amir was always so positive and his laugh infectious. The entire family up from the mischievous bebe to the wonderful Mama, were just a pleasure to be around, and I must admit I wanted to stay.

I was inspired here, more so than anywhere else so far to initiate projects myself, and it helped to create a clearer vision for ‘Patchwork World’. I believe that through creating and encouraging more partnerships between ‘Mustard Seed’ and other organisations, so much progress could be made in Mgongeni. It is difficult for grass roots charities to have the time and resources to focus on this, but to have a charity, which purely helped to inspire and initiate cooperative projects between organisations, could truly be a great catalyst for great progression and development. I am still a long way off working out where to begin, but I have a clearer vision for ‘Patchwork World’ now. It will continue with EEF in Ethiopia, and hopefully long into the future with a variety of other organisations. Eventually, I hope that Patchwork Work can have a presence in many countries throughout Africa, and perhaps eventually elsewhere, helping to form such partnerships, and connect small focussed projects together, creating collaborative paths to tangible progression.

After many weeks now spent in Africa, I have developed a vision, and a dream, of one day being able to travel the continent as an equal, and not someone from that ‘other world’ where they have everything they want. To be able to meet people all over the continent with friendship being the only driving force and not development, and with no other expectation than this, would be a wonderful thing, and I truly believe that one day I will realise this dream.

After leaving Mombassa, we headed off towards Tanzania, and Pangani, where I first found Africa seven years ago. This would truly give me a taste of development, not only externally, but also with my own internal journey. I was nervous and excited in equal measure. I had experienced nightmares of finding Pangani a completely altered place, and was desperate to still feel a connection there. As we hit the road, I felt as though I was leaving a place that had formed part of my future, to go to a place that was very much part of my past. There was something about this part of Africa that just felt so welcoming. It felt like home.

Hope and Kindness - in West Kenya

The next morning we were officially welcomed by the teachers and students of the school with the most incredible assembly. We had welcome songs and speeches, and really felt an incredibly positive energy from everyone. The school was setup in 2002 by a British couple, Terry and Judi Mott, after they spent a year volunteering in West Kenya with their two children. So moved were they by the extreme levels of poverty many of the families were facing, that they setup a children’s home and a school that year.

We found the school nine years on, thriving, and with a student population of over 150, with 36 orphans living in the home adjacent to the school. Many of the students were either orphans or from single parent families. Often the cost of schooling is too much for the families to deal with, and therefore the cycle of poverty continues. What ‘Hope and Kindness’ contribute towards is at least helping to ensure as many local children as possible receive primary education. Even if that is all they get, it can make an incredible difference to their lives, and help them to overcome some of their problems.

Terry and Judi regularly visit the school, and when they are in the UK still manage to run the project from afar. They are helped by the incredible School Manager, Mama Ben (Mary), Duncan, who is full of energy and fronts the farming initiative, and a great group of enthusiastic teachers. In addition to this they have regular volunteers from overseas, and right now have two thoroughly lovely and committed helpers, in the form of Hilda and Ian, who were at the early stages of a 12-month stay. They will be supporting Terry and Judi with the development of the agricultural training scheme, and also be helping with the other major stem of Hope and Kindness’s work, community development.

In addition to the school, the charity also has a desire to help the local community to develop, and supports many of the least privileged people in a number of ways. We were lucky enough to visit some of the families who had been assisted in building new homes by Hope and Kindness. Previously their homes had very little space, and would sleep several people to a room. In addition to this, they often had leaking roofs, and were just generally detrimental to the overall health and wellness of the family members. Having been assisted with building materials, their living conditions had been improved dramatically, and the change this made to them was clear. One of the ladies we had the absolute pleasure of meeting, Persilla, commented, that ‘Hope and Kindness’ had made her not to feel like a widow, after her husbands death. They had helped her in a multitude of ways, and had truly helped to transform her life.

The agriculture scheme was up and running already, and we even got stuck into a little bit of digging ourselves. Duncan was in charge, and the children were more than happy to muck in. This initiative is set to be increased drastically in scale, however, with Terry keen to setup an agricultural training centre. Unfortunately, job opportunities in the area are still few and far between, and a massive percentage still relay on farming. Thus, it is immeasurably valuable to offer children training in this department. It won’t be for all, and still there is a drive towards getting students into secondary school, and even further to University, but the reality is that farming will play a big part in many of their lives.

In a recurring trend that we have witnessed in several countries, there is an issue with the cost of secondary education. We take it for granted in the UK, but really secondary education is still very much a luxury in many countries. It is my belief, and the belief of many others that education is a key component of development, it is however, an incredible challenge to get it right. The balance between getting numbers into schools, and ensuring a quality education is often difficult to find, and thus one or the other is lacking. Hope and Kindness are not responsible for this, and the work they do for these children and the community is amicable, and extremely important. It is imperative that charities like this are supported, as they offer immediate support to children and families now, who otherwise would be left behind. It is, however, equally crucial that some of the larger NGOS and the governments of developing countries begin to get secondary education right; ensuring it is both quality and inclusive, and that it doesn’t follow an elitist path that simply widens the gap between the haves and have-nots.

We left Hope and Kindness, once again too soon, and we were really grateful for their incredible hospitality and warmth, and only wished we could have stayed longer. We did, however, have a long drive to Mombassa in the diary, where we would visit Kenyan charity number two, ‘Mustard Seed’, and once more be introduced to the issue of education, community development, and vocational training. We would also be stopping off in Nairobi to catch up on some much needed editing, blogging, and rest, and also a little TLC for the Yellow Beast.

Making of: Real Way Down (part 10 - Syria)

Courtesy of Phillip Wright...

The 'most dangerous road in Africa'!

Before leaving Addis, we took the car for a quick check up, mainly to ensure that everything was nice and tight and ready to face the perils of what has been described on several occasions as ‘Africa’s most dangerous road’. Luckily we stumbled across ‘Mitchell Cotts Land Rover’, and they were more than happy to carry out a few quick checks, and tighten up a few nuts free of charge. We could now progress with an ease of mind, which has been lacking with regard to the vehicle, for some time. We were in convoy with a lone Andres, and had an extra passenger in the form of Ephram, the lovely young chap who was the catalyst and inspiration behind EEF. He was heading home for the summer, and with his hometown, Arba Minch, roughly en route we had agreed to drop him back.

We headed off, slightly delayed by general lingering, and got in a good eight hours driving, before deciding to come to a rest in Sodo, where we sought out a cheap hotel. Following a policeman on a bike to several overpriced establishments, we eventually arrived at what was little more than a brothel, and managed to agree a price of little less than $4/night. It wasn’t ideal, but it was dark and we were tired, so we shut off our ears to the none-stop music downstairs, ignored the damp smell coming from the bathrooms, and tried to get our staple six hours sleep. We woke up, slightly refreshed, and after a desperate hunt for black market petrol we headed off to Arba Minch.

The road wasn’t great, and it was a bit of an effort getting there. When we did, we found a lovely, shady hide away to eat, and stayed for far too long. By the time we left Arba Minch, we were a good couple of hours behind schedule, and another late night arrival seemed inevitable. We waved goodbye to Ephram, who had been a pleasure throughout, and headed onwards to Moyale. At first the road was very average, but we were making reasonable ground. It wasn’t until we reached a diversion sign on the road that things got incredibly interesting. The diversion appeared to take us directly up and over a mountain, and down the other side. We drove through riverbeds, and across shanty bridges. At times we needed a good run up to get our vehicle up steep inclines, and occasionally on the way down the smell of our brakes was becoming more and more apparent. It was tricky, and at one point we sat at the base of a valley with steep hills both in front and behind us, unsure as to whether we could make it either way. Eventually, after several hours, we spotted a road up ahead, and after what had been an extremely enjoyable and challenging section of our route, we had three hours along a bumpy, stony road, before eventually arriving at Moyale.

Once we did, our mission was once more to seek out a cheap hotel. The first couple of hotels were either closed or full, but eventually we came across a lovely little place, with several UN vehicles parked up outside. Although the ‘nice’ rooms were out of our price range, we did eventually manage to persuade them to put all three of us in a cheaper room, and again paid around $4 each for the night. The next morning the plan would be to fill up on petrol, head to the border early, and then set off along the notoriously bad road into Kenya. We were pretty sure, however, that our experiences that day had put us in good stead, and the fact that both of our cars had stood up well to the conditions gave us confidence going forwards.

The next day started slow. First job was trying to arrange some money to be transferred via Western Union. A serious lack of ATMs had left us a little short, and we didn’t want to suddenly run out of money somewhere in the middle of nowhere. Western Union has always worked incredibly efficiently, however, the bank was having connectivity issues, and after a few hours of waiting we gave up. We headed off to haggle of petrol prices at the last garage in Ethiopia, and then crossed over to the Kenyan side. The border was pretty straight forward, and our only issue came with our $100 bill being refused on the basis that it was slightly damaged. Andres leant us the $60 we needed, and soon we were on Kenyan soil, and for me back in the Swahili speaking land that I had fallen in love with in Tanzania six years previous. I again headed off to the Western Union office, and here things were straightforward. Frustratingly we also found there to be a functioning ATM machine there, and the day had been pretty much wasted. We found a nice campsite, however, and it was nice to have a relaxed evening at a Kenyan bar, with chip shop chips, and ice cold beer.

The next morning we got up early, and were advised to head off before the convoy of buses and trucks, as it meant that if we were to encounter nay trouble, they would be right behind. Very quickly we arrived at the first police checkpoint of the day, and were given an armed guard, and an off duty policeman to join us for the journey. Both were heading back to Marsabit, and were more than happy to hitch a ride, at the same time as giving us some protection from the bandits who were rumoured to be very active in the region. The road lived up to its reputation, and although we kept reasonable pace, the nature of it was quite relentless. We adopted the method of ploughing through, and only stopped occasionally to allow Andres and his little Citroen Ami to catch up. Eventually we decided we had to push on, and with a guard on board, we were happy Andres would be safe.

After about six hours driving, we eventually stopped for food, and were happy for the temporary respite. Our ‘guards’ had been a pleasure throughout, and we enjoyed jovial chats over food. However, time was ticking on, and too soon it was once again time to hit the ‘road’, and try our damndest to arrive at Marsabit at a reasonable hour. The road got worse rather than better, and at times we could only crawl along a little over five miles/hour. We did, however, eventually reach Marsabit, and after dropping our guards off at the local police station, we continued onwards to Henry the Swiss’s campsite. We were kindly fed by a safari company staying for the night, and before the clocks had even hit 9pm, we both headed off to bed. As we did, we received the phone call that we were waiting for, from Andres. We had heard along the grapevine that he had at least one puncture, but when we spoke to him, we found out it had been four, and a fuel pump issue. He ended up driving all night, and eventually we saw him again in the morning, tired, but relieved to have made it to Marsabit.

On waking the next morning we also were amazed to see that a convoy of Trucks, ambulances, and vans, all heading from South Africa to Gaza on an aid mission had parked up right next to us. We must have been tired, as neither of us had heard anything. They were taking masses of stuff to Gaza, including some incredibly large generators, which could power entire hospitals. Phil, in particular, who has close ties to Palestine was incredibly interested and enthused to see the troop, and after chatting to the team for an hour or so, we had to head onwards. We agreed to take their armed guards back to Isiolo with us, and they all kindly invited us to stay with them once we arrived in South Africa. You can follow their progress at www.sarelief.net , and we wish them all the luck in the world for a successful mission.

Our first port of call once more was a mechanic. The previous day had been punishing on the vehicle, and we felt it was necessary to have a quick check up. First it seemed fine, however on closer inspection we had a small puncture in one tyre, which was fixed easily, but more troublesome was that the casing for one of our front shocks had worn through, and needed replacing. The road to Isiolo was for the first 150km no better than what we had just experienced, and we weren’t prepared to take it on without having everything up to scratch. It took a couple of hours, at an expense of less than $100, but it had delayed our progress again, and when we hit the road at around 2pm, it was obvious that we would once more be arriving late.

We again headed off with Andres, and after another exhausting drive on both us and the vehicle, we waved goodbye to him at a Safari Lodge just short of Isiolo. He hadn’t had any sleep for over 24 hours, and was keen for a couple of days rest. We headed onto Isiolo, and after eating quickly we eventually found Gidasa Hotel and Camping. It was late, and pitch black, however Vera, our host, was incredibly sympathetic, and allowed us to have a lovely and clean room at a reduced rate, of approximately $10/person. It was lovely to have nice clean beds in peaceful surroundings, along with mosquito nets, and we must have slept well, as neither of us stirred until 9.30am. When we did, Vera offered to prepare us a breakfast of cereal and toast, which was just too good to refuse. In fact, we could have stayed there for weeks, and recommend it to anyone passing through. Once more, which has been the curse of such a tight time schedule, we had to leave long before we wanted, and we had another days drive to get to Kosele and our partner charity ‘Hope and Kindness’.

The roads were good, and we made reasonable progress. Another diversion slowed us down slightly, and then we spotted that we had a slow puncture still in our back left tyre. On closer inspection we found a nail. We enlisted the help of a local man with an air compressor, and a friend with a pair of pliers, and armed with our puncture repair kit, had everything ship shape in half an hour. We continued onwards to Kosele, and eventually, with the time approaching midnight, we arrived. Mary the manager of the school and hostel, kindly had waited up, and brought us bread and jam, before preparing our rooms, where we retired enthusiastically to get some rest. We had to be up by 7.30 for assembly at 8am, and so it wouldn’t be as long a sleep as required, but any sleep had become appreciated, and no sooner had my head hit the pillow, I was sound asleep.