Early post project thoughts!

Greetings! I have to firstly apologise as I haven't had a second to think, let alone write since leaving Johannesburg nearly four weeks ago!! It was a race back to addis, in just over a week, and we had an unfortunate incident in Arba Minch (South Ethiopia), which delayed things further. Luckily everything was okay in the end, and I arrived at my new home in Addis Ababa just a few days behind schedule.


Since arriving in Addis, it has been none stop!! I have had to contend with visa/work permit issues, and will indeed be continuing my travels to Djibouti next month to resolve them. I basically have to leave Ethiopia! Our Director is here this week, and we have had a packed full schedule, with our main focus being supporting students with interview technique, presentation skills, and general approach for their applications to the New York University Abu Dhabi, where we currently have three EEF students on full scholarships worth $250,000. We are extremely hopeful of getting at least another two in this year, giving them arguably the richest and most diverse university experience available on the planet. Not bad considering where these young Ethiopians were 4 or 5 years ago. This years and next years selections include some students with such massive potential to achieve great things. Particularly the girls gave inspirational presentations on issues as difficult and complex as female circumcision, HIV/Aids in women, and traditional domestic practices in the Hammer Tribe of Ethiopia. The strength they showed at such a young age to talk openly about subjects that many leaders fail to address was truly wonderful to see!! Maybe the future of change in Ethiopia, and Africa.


In addition to this we have also had to contend with a couple of personal issues with some of our students. One boy, we recently discovered has been suffering from a severe bout of depression, and has been missing school as a result. This has stemmed from an extremely difficult family background, and has also resulted in an eating disorder, and a virtual incapability to eat in front of others. He is a wonderfully polite, kind, and honest boy, however, and also incredibly intelligent. We are working closely with him to resolve these issues, and already he is showing great signs of progress. There are always going to be such psychological problems within our student base, as a result of their backgrounds, and the foreign environment that our sponsorship scheme puts them into. In 7 years, we have yet to fail a student, however, and we don't intend on this happening at any time in the future. Another of our students, has suffered a lot since losing his mother two years ago, whilst he was sleeping next to her in the same bed. We can't even begin to imagine what he has been through, but again, we will offer him all the support he needs to grow into an adult with an excellent academic record, and ability to approach issues and difficulties in a positive and progressive way. The EEF hostel is truly an inspirational place to be, and I highly suggest you come out and pay me a visit at some point, to support, and see our work for yourself.


Now, onto the main subject of this email.... the 'Real Way Down'. Firstly, apologies for rambling so much about my new venture, but I have already become completely immersed in it. This does not mean, however, that my focus and passion towards 'Patchwork World' has faltered at all. My decision to take this position in April, was based on an enthusiasm to obtain more direct experience of grass roots development, whilst playing an active role in the next stage of progression of a charity with hugely impressive foundations. Everything I learn here, and the contacts I make, will be put to use in the development of Patchwork World in the future.


The 'Real Way Down'... what can I say? I owe a massive debt of gratitude to so many people that it is impossible to even begin to mention individuals. I had a vision a long time ago now, almost it seems in a different life, and never could I imagine the incredible support everyone offered me in achieving it. It is true to say that the journey wasn't a 6 month expedition, but rather a 5-year long journey, and indeed most of the difficult moments happened even before our vehicle's tyres had begun to roll. At many times, I felt an inability to achieve what I had set out to achieve. My self esteem was fleeting, and at times I felt like I had been kidding myself. In truth, without the support of so many people, I would simply have given up long before the physical journey began. It was not only tangible support, in terms of the website, fund raising events. donations etc, but more so, the incredible moral support I received almost constantly throughout the duration of the last half decade, and for this I am eternally grateful.


I haven't really had time to process the entire project yet, but all I can say is that I hope it has been part of the people following us, as it has been for both me, Phil, and Cindy. It is impossible to describe how I feel now having reached South Africa, and maybe I will have to leave that until I have a few weeks to think it all through. One thing which is for sure, however, is that the journey rolls on. It is all part of the one same vision, and I truly hope that one day this vision becomes a part of a greater vision, which truly helps to activate change and progression. We have seen many horrendous sufferings during this journey, but what has been overwhelming is the strength and hope in the face of such adversities. Still, it is true that some things were just unacceptable, and indeed many of these were in Europe, not as far from home as you may think. Africa has suffered now from disease, famine, poor education, violent leaders, and a lack of many human rights and freedoms for a number of years. There is, however, a sense of change in the air, and the young people who will be the leaders of tomorrow, have much more of a sense of equality, freedom, and human rights, than their predecessors. Progression is at the core of many of their philosophies, and truly I can see a much more prosperous future for a continent, which has had the lion's share of problems in modern history. As for the Middle East, and indeed Northern Africa, change is clear to see for everyone. The Syrian crisis, which threatened to end our journey, rages on, and with the International community merely playing a spectator's role, whose to know when a resolution will come. One thing is clear, however, and that is that people are prepared to fight until the bitter end for the rights and freedoms that we as Western Europeans take for granted. We can only hope that the next wave of Middle Eastern and Arab African leaders rebuild their respective nations on foundations of equality, and not greed. There are still many issues, however, back at home in the UK and Western Europe, and sometimes they are even more complex and subtle in their nature. There are still millions of people who fall outside the protective gloves of such nations, and there is a need for a deep and thorough investigation into how we can limit this. Many people would suggest that there will always be those who suffer, and those who prosper, and perhaps to a certain extent they are right. As an idealist, however, and a great believer in humanity, I don't accept this is the case, and believe we should work towards a future where everyone has access to the potential of a prosperous and happy existence on the land mass that we all call home.


The world is a small place, I truly feel that way now, and the differences so minute and subtle, that to an outsiders eye we would all be deemed to be the same. Religion, race, tradition, and shoe size apart, we all have the same foundations at our core, and to focus on this in a world where leaders are determined to create divisions, is a challenge which we should all strive towards. For too long our world has been under the 'management' of weak men, driven by fear, greed, and self importance, when truly it is the people who have the power to create, progress, and develop our world. To this end, we must focus on education, women's rights, and the empowerment of individuals ahead of governments and corporations, in addition to providing the basic necessities for human life. There are those driven by power, destruction, and complete domination of the world, there are however many more driven by a passion to share, unite, and live in peace. The 'Real Way Down' rewarded us so much for our belief in humanity, and truly despite passing through several regions suffering from internal struggles, namely Syria, Egypt, and Sudan, we were much more aware of the kindness, hospitality, and great spirit of everybody we met. This was indeed the greatest lesson in not basing opinions on news stories or television, but rather to form opinions based on individual experiences, and I encourage everyone else to do the same.

All I have left to say at this point, is that I owe a huge amount of gratitude to each and every person who helped along the way, even if it was just to tell a friend about what we were doing. All of the people we met along the way were such inspirations, and again their belief in our project was humbling. There is one person who I have to thank ahead of everyone else, and that is 'video monkey', Phil. Without him the 'Real Way Down' would have been nothing. It would have been one slightly misguided young man on a kamikaze mission of self discovery. Phil made it so much more than that. We were at each others side constantly for 6 months, and rarely, if ever did we fall out. As many of you will know, I'm not always the easiest person to be around, and so thanks man for your patience and trust. I truly hope that when all is said and done, you don't feel that you were simply along for the ride, but that both of us experienced a shared vision. It was epic, that is for sure, there were ups and downs, but the latter were far outweighed by the positives. We met so many wonderful people, and such little negativity. The entire journey seemed to be riding on a wave of positivity, fortune, and unbelievable kindness.

I apologise for only sharing rambled and rushed thoughts, but I will be writing somthing much more considered in the near future.

Love to you all once more!!! Thank you for being a part of the journey!!

Peace by Piece!!!

Road to Zion

Eventually we left Harare, and as always, it was against our will. It had been so great being a part of the Makokoro family for a week, and really Zim was a place that entered both of our hearts. We were now heading inland towards Bulawayo, and from there we would head back up the continent towards Livingstone, and Victoria Falls.

After spending a night in Bulawayo, we hit the road early doors, and had hoped to perhaps catch a glimpse of Victoria Falls. Unfortunately though, when we arrived, we were in a race to hit the border, and so after discovering that we would have to pay to even catch a glimpse of the falls, we decided to add it to the list of tourist attractions omitted from our itinerary. We would be crossing into Botswana, and then after an hour, further into Namibia, where we would be staying with ‘Children of Zion’, a Christian orphanage, in Katima Mulilo.

Our progress was slightly delayed by traffic cops in Zimbabwe, who with something resembling a 1950s hair dryer, suggested that we were going to fast. After almost an hour of debate, we decided to pay the $5 fine, and be on our way. In truth, I probably was going a little too fast, but an 80km/hour speed limit on a straight, tarred, and empty road was a little limiting. Anyway, eventually it was an hour that we couldn’t spare, and after passing through the border in Botswana, we were informed that we would be too late to make the Namibian border. It was a shame, but not the end of the world.

We headed to the only major town in the area, Kasane, to get some cash, and having eaten a late lunch, decided to head to the border, and buy dinner once we arrived. Once we got to the border, it was indeed closed, and thus we headed off in search of food and a place to stay. We hadn’t quite realised how little there was in North Botswana, however, and after driving around for an hour or so, we accepted the locals answer of ‘there is nowhere to buy food anywhere’. We were used to finding small local restaurants, or at least someone cooking on a grill, but there was literally nothing. As we headed back towards the border, we decided to veer off the road towards a safari lodge. It would probably be expensive, but it had been a long day, and the idea of setting up our stove and cooking some of our remaining tins didn’t appeal.

We drove up to the lodge, and felt a little out of place nervously walking into a luxury restaurant with our travel withered faces, and dusty clothes. At first it seemed that we were going to have no joy getting food, as it was bought in especially to order for the guests. But after hanging around chatting for a little while, the mood changed, and soon we were given meals in little takeaway boxes, and drinks free of charge. It was a massive relief. We were both tired and hungry, and have to extend a massive thank you out to J.J Nyathi, at Muchenje Safari Lodge in Chobe Nature Reserve, Botswana. After eating our delicious meal in the car with the border in sight, we chanced upon an accommodation block for local lodge workers, and were granted permission to use their bathroom and toilets. After spending a short time, watching ‘The Patriot’ with a couple of guys in their outdoor bar area, we headed back to the car to sleep.

We had been used to sleeping in strange places, and indeed the car, so we didn’t think it would prove to be much of a problem. We did not, however, take into account the vast quantity of mosquitoes in the area. It was like a never-ending chorus of piercing hums. Eventually it got to the stage where neither of us could sleep, and instead spent hours trying to execute as many of the damned things as possible. Eventually nature balanced out again, and as a reward for being kept up by the mosquitoes, we got to see a small family of elephants grazing right in front of our car. It wouldn’t help to clean the cobwebs from our souls, but it certainly reminded us of the beauty of nature in the face of the annoying.

Early doors it was time to progress, and soon we were in Katima Mulilo, having successfully crossed the border. We found a great little café with wifi, and after getting our breakfast inside us and doing some work, headed to the Children of Zion Village. We were met there by Travis and Lorna, who have been the managers at the village for 11 months now, and who would be our hosts for the week. The organisation was set up in 2003 as an orphanage, mainly supporting children who have lost family members through HIV/Aids, and is now home to 59 children. In their own words, “Each year, millions of children are being orphaned or abandoned in third world nations as a result of war, poverty, neglect, and the AIDS Pandemic. Too many times, these children have no one to turn to for help. Children of Zion, Inc. is a non-profit 501 (c) 3 organization that supports a Christian Children’s Home in Namibia, Africa”.

Having been running now for 8 years, Travis and Lorna have arrived at a time, where many new issues need to be addressed. One of their first initiatives was to attempt to empower the community more. It has been a recurring factor on this journey, that people are starting to move more towards sustainable, and community driven projects, and repair some of the damage caused by earlier mistakes within the sector. Travis and Lorna were both keen to be a part of this transition, and so they have begun the process of making the village more inclusive to the local communities, firstly by the simple gesture of opening the gates, and secondly by involving themselves more within community life as a whole. In addition to this, they have also given more responsibility to the local Namibian employees, who have thrived, and began to develop a real sense of ownership over the village. Travis and Lorna commented that initially there had been some reluctance towards these new responsibilities, but now they have proved they are capable, and their confidence and self esteem has grown incredibly as a result.

The next hurdle that Travis and Lorna are working at overcoming is the fact that the initial group of children, who first entered the home eight years ago, are now adults, and thus a plan of how they can move on from the village and back into the community is vital. The first piece in this puzzle was ready to be put to the test soon after our departure, with the founding of the Transition home. This would be a first step for some of the older children to begin learning about how they can live independent lives. Here they would have to cook, clean, and tidy for themselves, as well as after an initial month settling period, be required to earn their own money, and budget for themselves, for food and bills. They would earn money by working within the village, and this would give them their first taste of how life might be in the outside world. In addition to this, the children were also encouraged to spend their school holidays with family members within the communities in which they will most likely return to at some stage in the future. This was to ensure that in addition to the education they received through COZV, they would also pick up many of the skills needed to live within mainstream Namibian society.

The one thing that will stick with me the most from my time in the village is the incredible personality and character of the children. They were truly a lovely bunch of kids, all offering something different and equally rewarding. They had experienced extreme difficulties and grief within their young lives, and they still held themselves in such a positive way. I laughed an awful lot during my time there, and really learnt to respect a lot of them for being so kind, friendly, open, and positive in the face of such adversities. Although this all sounds incredibly clichéd, it was really the overwhelming feeling I had during our stay. The abilities of some of the young men on the football pitch also, was incredibly impressive. They weren’t just good, but several truly displayed a great potential to play at a higher level. The village really offers these children a chance they otherwise wouldn’t have, a home and a family. It is always difficult to know when to let go, and be able to move on in this respect, but work is certainly being done to find a balance.

The religious aspect of the orphanage is one, which to me personally is not important. The fact that these children are being raised in a kind and loving environment is really enough to justify its existence. We could go into deeper debate about the long-term implications of such external influence, but really I feel no need to. Lorna and Travis both understood, and indeed had experience in the complexities and sensitivities of what the village offered, and although Christianity was at the core of the children’s syllabus, the main aim was to empower the children, and allow them to grow into good, healthy, and inspirational Namibian citizens. I have my own opinions about the involvement of a religious context in humanitarian work, but really for now I’d rather focus on the positive work being done. There is still a huge need today to support people, and especially children, affected by HIV/Aids. It has had such huge negative implications on countries and communities now for years, and although there is a major effort on the behalf of several NGOs to address the issue, there is still a lot of work to be done, and like everything it begins with the children, and indeed education.

We were incredibly humbled once more, by how welcoming and friendly everyone was to us. It was a place that could very easily have been depressing and almost hopeless, but due to the fantastic work of the local staff, Lorna and Travis, and indeed the children, it was a place full of positivity, hope, and an ambition to look forwards. It was extra difficult to leave these children, and it would be very easy to want to stay forever. It really is an incredibly challenging aspect of development work; to be able to help, but also to be strong enough to be able to let go when the time is right.

After, a wonderful and thought provoking few days, it was time to hit the road once more. We were heading back into Botswana, and hoping to reach Francistown in a day, where we would be filming with the ‘Tachila Nature Reserve’. South Africa was getting ever closer, and soon it would be time to digest everything we had experienced on this incredible journey.

Making of: Real Way Down documentary (part 13 - Sudan)

Latest behind the scenes video, courtesy of Mr Phillp Wright

Making of: Real Way Down documentary (part 13 - Sudan) from Patchwork World on Vimeo.

Zim Zimmer!!

After the delays of the immigration and customs procedures, we didn’t leave Lusaka until mid afternoon, and thus decided to head for the border, where we would spend the night, before heading to Harare the next day. We had hoped to cross at night to save time in the morning, but unfortunately arrived just after it had closed. We found a cheap lodge again, and had the bonus of catching the football once more. My worries about missing the premier league have been completely laid to rest, as it seems even easier to catch the games in Africa.

The following morning we headed off early, and were surprised at how easy and organised the Zimbabwean immigration was. They have a special system where you can both exit Zambia, and enter Zimbabwe in the same room. It makes everything a lot easier, and soon we were heading off to Harare. There was very little between the border and the first major town, approximately 150 miles down the road. We stopped in the second town for lunch, and soon we were closing in on Harare. I had been excited about seeing Zimbabwe, and Harare, as it is of course more renowned for it’s dictatorial leader, Robert Mugabe, than tourism.

Once we arrived in Harare, we gave our contact Patrick, a call, and he drove out to meet us. Patrick and I had been in communication a lot over the entire project, during the preparation and the journey itself, and it was great to see he was as enthusiastic and energetic in real life. After brief introductions, we headed off to his home, and the Goromonzi head office, where we would be staying. Patrick is the Director of the Goromonzi Project, and is currently working on a complete restructure of the organisation.

The house/office was incredible. We couldn’t believe our luck. We had a bedroom each, and the family environment was nice having been on the road for nearly five months. Patrick, and his wife lived there with their two-year-old daughter ‘cheche’, who was troublesome, but adorable. They were all lovely and incredibly welcoming, and we felt instantly at home. The Goromonzi Project was set up by Janet Shaw, who in 2005, whilst visiting her home land of Zimbabwe, had seen the devastating impact of AIDS on orphaned children and their families and communities. While in many cases the need for shelter was being addressed, the local resources were not adequate to respond to shortages in food supplies and basic health care, or lack of money to pay for education. As a result of this experience Janet formed an organization to find support for the basic needs of food, education and healthcare for orphaned and vulnerable children of Zimbabwe. Patrick had recently taken over the reigns completely and was looking at adjusting their approach slightly.

Although during our time there, we couldn’t see an awful lot of actuality, it was an inspiring period nonetheless. We visited Goromonzi, which is a poor area about 40 km from Harare, and a couple of the schools who have benefited hugely from the oranisation. As Patrick said, extremely passionately, on several occasions, pre-primary education is really key to the development of a child’s brain, and this was backed up by interviews we conducted with some of the schoolteachers. It was commented on several occasions that children who have studied in pre-primary can adjust to life, and learn a lot quicker once they enter primary school. It makes the teacher’s jobs a lot easier, and not only are the children use to the process of learning, but also they often have a lot more confidence, and comfort within their environment. The children, unfortunately, were on holiday during the time we were there, and so we couldn’t see them within the classrooms. We did, however, see the rooms, and it was clear to see how they help the early development of a child’s brain.

In addition to seeing Goromonzi, and a couple of the projects the organisation have realised already, we also were given an in depth tour of Harare itself by Patrick. We visited some of the most affluent areas, with high walls and gates protecting their privacy. Some of the houses were ludicrous, with incredible views, huge gardens, and enough rooms to house a small army. In stark contrast to this, we also visited Mbari, which was an inner city slum area, and one which had experienced its fair share of political problems in the past. Here there was a major issue of crime, and poverty, and also a huge amount of political oppression at the hands of the Zanu-PF youths.

To talk about Zimbabwe’s political situation would take a long time, and an awful lot of research on my behalf. In short, Robert Mugabe has ever increasingly lost control over the country. In the early years, back when Zimbabwe first became independent, Mugabe was a huge success, and widely celebrated, even supported by the British who he had recently defeated. He had, however, over the course of the following thirty years increasingly lost his grip on the country, and begun to run an ever more erratic, violent, and oppressive government, killing and beating anyone who opposes him, and fundamentally standing in the way of democracy. He has been responsible for the killings of thousands of people in the Matebeland region of Zimbabwe, and his displaced many more. His increasingly paranoid outlook had also lead him to drive a division between white and black Zimbabweans, as well as between different tribal groups, and alienate the country from most of its neighbours.

The political background of Zimbabwe made it particularly difficult to film. Freedom of press was not high on Mugabe’s agenda, and thus journalists were often given a rough ride in Zimbabwe. Many of the shots we got of both Harare City, and Mbari district had to be done quickly and subtly, and there were several occasions when we had to drive off from being shouted at. It was frustrating, but part and parcel of filming in a ‘paranoid’ environment. Again, Patrick did his best to ensure that we got the footage that we wanted, but having once before been at direct risk himself, from Zanu-PF, was understandably cautious.

The recent developments with Patrick, and the Goromonzi project are structured around a plan to form a coalition of community-based projects around the Harare area. All of these projects have a focus on pre-primary education, and it is great to see someone as switched on and as focussed as Patrick. He has a huge focus on sustainability, and stressed the importance of donor understanding. He suggested that in the past donors had wanted to see specific things done with their money, but it didn’t fit in with a long-term sustainable plan. It was clear that he had great integrity, and truly wanted to put plans in to action to catalyse progression. He had put himself and his family in a more unstable situation as a result of wanting to ensure the true benefit of the organisation, but had the faith that his hard work and vision would pay off in the end.

As mentioned earlier, it wasn’t easy to get the footage we needed, but I was, however, extremely satisfied during our time there. In recent years the level of cynicism towards the charity sector has grown massively, as a result of a number of issues, including corruption, high salaries, administrative costs etc. It is, however, incredibly important to understand that a huge amount of development work does indeed take place in an office, and not at a school, or in a children’s home. It is vital that donor money isn’t wasted, and that the donor to field ratio is high, but it is equally important to ensure that the money is being used responsibly, and with the ownership of a community. It is important to focus on long term and sustainable solutions, and not to please a donors wishes of having nice photos and a building to show for 12 months labour. Again it is about intent. Corporate bodies who decided to support charitable work need to do it with the intent of supporting a just cause, not enhancing their public profile. Too often money is used to achieve short-term visions, without any consideration for long term and sustainable benefits.

Another interesting conversation we had during our time in Harare added further zest to this issue. A guest at our Zimbabwean barbeque, Hugh Brent Solvason, of Stanford University’s Department of Psychiatry, spoke at length with us about the psychiatry of development. This is a prime example of long-term objectives. He had focussed some research on working with sub-Saharan orphans and vulnerable children in Southern Africa, and noted that often when a charitable objective can seem to have been achieved, it is often blind to the long term reality. For example, for children who have grown up in a violent, paranoid, post-conflict (or conflict) state, there are longer-term implications to their experiences than simply missing out on education, or needing food and shelter. There are often permanent implications to the development of the brain, and this needs to be considered. Also, incredibly, he mentioned that research had suggested that exposure to violence, suffering, or oppression can pass through generations genetically. This means that a vast and deep understanding of history, and past experiences is vital for the true understanding of how to progress. Again, some times this as a stem of charitable work, which doesn’t attract a huge amount of donor support, as it offers no short-term tangible results.

In short, there is a very difficult balance to strike, in ensuring that both a high donor to filed ratio is present, and that a long term and sustainable focus is in place. There is an incredible importance for a depth of research to be carried out, and when connected to development, it’s vital that this is donor supported. Again, still for me, the answer lies in a cooperative path to long term objectives, and with a focus on small community based, grass roots NGOs, supported by a whole range of professionals in various fields, from Development to Psychiatry, and Anthropology to History. It seems to me a little like ‘development experts’ have carved there own little niche, and have become rather arrogant in thinking that they know the best path to progression, without considering the views of the above mentioned experts, or indeed the community members themselves.

After, a slight false start, we decided to take the car in for a quick check-up, before we left the city lights of Harare, and headed back out into the wilderness for another few weeks. The end was getting closer, and the picture clearer. One thing, which was for sure, was the cemented view that the ‘Real Way Down’ was very much the first step in a life long journey.

Kasanka National Trust

The short drive down from Mpika to Kasanka was easy enough, and soon we had arrived at the National Park for which the Trust are responsible. Once again we had arrived later than expected, and so after being showed to our room, headed straight to the lodge to find food. It was the first time on this journey that we had entered into tourist territory, and as well as being lovely, it was also strangely alienating. Due to the nature of the project, we have only really seen a high number of tourists in passing, and have of course been staying away from such areas. It is one of the huge benefits we have found throughout the course of this journey. Not only have we driven through each country, and thus seen a good proportion of the varying communities and landscapes, but also we have been based in places where tourists wouldn’t visit, and thus have had a unique view of their day-to-day life.

The Kasanka Trust was set up when in 1985, a British expatriate, David Lloyd, who had lived in Zambia on and off for many years, visited Kasanka out of curiosity. There were no roads or bridges and no tourists had penetrated the Park for many years, but he managed to explore a little on foot. On hearing the crack of gunshots he concluded that if there was still poaching, there must still be animals! He was impressed with the beautiful habitats he found and decided to try and save the Park from complete destruction and the threat of losing its National Park status. He teamed up with a local farmer who had also explored the Park a little, and the two used their own resources to employ scouts and build roads, bridges and temporary camps. These early efforts were encouraged by the government, which had been unable to manage the Park itself. In order to help raise funds and formalise their position, they formed the Kasanka Trust, which was registered in Zambia (1987) and UK (1989).

The Project soon attracted attention from conservationists, and tourism started to bring in a little money to help cover costs. In 1990, the National Parks and Wildlife Services (NPWS) was sufficiently impressed by the progress to sign an agreement allowing the Trust to manage the Park and develop tourism to help fund its activities. This agreement recognised the importance of co-operation with the local community, which has always been central to the trust’s philosophy. In May 2003 the new Zambia Wildlife Authority which took over from National Parks and Wildlife Service, signed a new agreement for a further 5 years which automatically renews for a further 5 years at expiry. This agreement grants the Kasanka Trust “exlusive rights to manage and develop Kasanka National Park….” Kasanka is Zambia’s first national park under private management and is entirely reliant on tourism revenue and charitable funding.

Today we find the park thriving and full of animal species. For both of us, it is our first safari-esque experience and thus we can’t really compare it to any other parks, it was however truly beautiful. The view from the Wasa Lodge, where we spent most of our down time, and enjoyed our evening meals, overlooked a wetland, which was home to numerous bird species, hippos, and crocodiles. The evening sounds were completely bewildering, reminiscent of a Disney film soundtrack. The roars of the hippos, the bell like chorus of the birds, and the constant hum of insects, created a sensory overload, unlike anything I have ever experienced (well, since Ethiopia).

The original purpose of the trust, as stated above, was to rejuvenate a park depleted in animal species, and falling foul of hunting and neglect. The mission, however, involved a great deal of community interaction, and it was imperative to their ambitions to simultaneously protect the park, and instigate community development. The premise was an extremely strong one, which involved the local community learning and seeing for themselves the great benefit of conservation work. The idea was that if they saw tangible benefits from the conservation, anti-poaching, tourism etc, they would embrace the park, and be happy to adopt different approaches to earning a living (other than poaching). The model was that the park conservation helped to increase animal numbers, which in turn attracted a greater number of tourists, and thus more revenue, which would be shared with the community through development projects. This model, as well as helping to display the above-mentioned benefits of conservation, also gave the local communities a feeling of ownership over the park, and thus a sense of pride.

For once our timing was good, and we had arrived at a time when the sponsored secondary school students were doing a field trip at the park. To our delight, one of the community projects that the Trust embarked upon was to assist local children with secondary education. This had been an issue in most if not all of the African countries that we had passed through. There seemed to be almost an excess of primary education projects, but very few which maintained support to that next stage. The children were at the park for a few days to learn about conservation, animal species, and everything else connected to the Kasanka National Park and Trust. It was certainly a great place to start the community development focus, and many of the children displayed a keen interest to become involved within nature conservation in the future.

Our first morning in Kasanka was an early one, as it had been decided that we would join the sponsored students, and the Officer for Education, Given, on a morning safari. We had limited expectations, as we had only ever heard about safaris second hand, and thus were extremely excited when after only a short time we had our first big sighting. We had stepped out of the vehicle at the first base camp, and immediately were pointed in the direction of some Elephants. At first they were just grey lumps hiding in the long grass in the distance, but after a short period they came out into full view, and soon the incredible grandeur of one of Africa’s most famous animals was clear to see. This sighting set the tone for the day, and after walking a good few miles, we had seen several species of antelope and bird, some monkeys, and four hippos. It had been an incredibly successful morning, and not only on the animal front, but also with the children who were really great examples of why education is a key component of development of any kind. As if to put a cherry on top of proceedings, as we headed back to where we had left the vehicles at base camp and just before Phil and I headed back to base, the elephants had grown in number, and soon 13 elephants were walking across the plains in front of us. It was an incredible sight, and the presence of a three-day old just enhanced the experience further.

After a quick rest for lunch, we headed off into the bush to visit some rangers out on patrol. Teams of around six or seven men would spend just over a week on patrol out in the park, looking for any signs of poaching, or trespass. The problem had been catastrophic in the past, and had played a huge role in dilapidating the animal numbers. The rangers were very welcoming to us, and incredibly articulate. Many had worked in the park for over ten years, and there was an apparent sense of pride towards the work they did. They all commented on how they had seen an incredible increase in animal numbers in their time working there, and also mentioned that the community had come to accept the work they do now, where as before they had been met with some negativity. This was down, in their opinion, to the understanding now within many members of the community that protecting the park, and its wildlife, was also helping to enrich their community, and provide them with opportunities for the future. Poaching, however, hadn’t by any means disappeared completely, and one member of the team had recently had a frightening encounter where he had been shot at a couple of times by someone out hunting. The issue is certainly, however, improving, and with further work within the community, will continue to do so for the foreseeable future.

After a second day spent exploring the lodge, chatting to tourists, employees, and volunteers, and running interviews with both Inge, the Park Manager, and Given, our final day was spent with the community development team, with whom we visited several development projects in the local area. One of the key approaches of the community development section of the Kasanka Trust was to focus on income generating activities, which could replace the necessity to poach. There was a chronic lack of employment opportunities in the area, with Kasanka really offering the only real jobs, and thus money was hard to come by. The focus was thus on several different farming initiatives. We visited vegetable farms, where seeds had been provided for by the Trust, fish farms, and bee keeping projects, all of which seemed to be successful. Again, however, as we’ve seen many times on the continent, it is not the growing of crops, which is the problem, but rather the selling, as there is a limited market within the poorer rural areas. It did, however, provide families with good food, and made enough additional money to buy other necessities. The one problem we encountered, however, was that there wasn’t enough income generated to make the farms sustainable, and the Trust faced an issue of many people requesting supplementary support to help expand their businesses, meaning that they were becoming slightly dependent on the financial support.

Again, a recurring theme we have encountered during our time in Africa in particular, is many repeat projects. They are always good starting blocks. You have primary education, micro-finance business grants, school buildings, feeding centres etc, but often, due to the grass roots nature of the charities involved, they end there, at this initial stage. It is not a criticism of such ventures, but rather an observation. This is perhaps where larger NGOS, or government bodies should become involved, however, I also feel that it is a clear sign that there is a need for a new approach, and an increased diversity with regards to grass roots development in Africa. It is the lack of innovation that inspired our project in the first place, and shows exactly the problem caused by the massive gap between community projects and the major NGOS. The community projects are aware of the problems, in respect to moving on to the next stage, but have a specific goal, and a lack of resources to expand. The larger NGOs, and maybe I’m being a little harsh, but am speaking from my observations, simply don’t seem to have that same understanding.

Again, this simply cements the philosophy of Patchwork World, which is to work as a force in between the small community based projects, to catalyse cooperation and innovation, to overcome the next level issues, and move development on to that next stage. Development on this level has existed for long enough now, with the same recurring problems, that something should exist to help overcome them. From my experiences thus far on this journey and before, however, it doesn’t. I hear of major NGOS carrying out initiatives with grass roots charities, however the few times I have seen anything of this ilk, it has been at arms length, and through funding only. Once more, it is time for some people in development to think ‘what’s next?’ and to begin to consider the steps in between the initial support stage, and the level of sustainability and prosperity that is being sort in the long run. It is key, in my opinion, for a new energy, and level of innovation to be injected into the sector to boost the good work being done thus far, and really I believe this needs to be the core focus of Patchwork World.

The community projects carried out by Kasanka Trust, however, were successfully achieving their objectives. In addition to the farming ventures, there was also support given to many local primary schools to enhance sustainability, in addition to supplementing education, with conservation groups, workshops, and field trips. The poaching had decreased rapidly over the years that the Trust’s community work has been active, and certainly the community felt a new sense of importance towards both education and conservation. The model wasn’t completely functional in reality, in the respect that they were reliant on a large amount of donor support to maintain the community development section of their work. As Inge mentioned during her interview, the primary objective of their work would always be on the direct running of the park, and thus if the money received by donors was taken away, the community development section would suffer first. This, again, is a sign of a small grass roots organisation, clearly achieving their objectives, but now requiring cooperation, and innovative approaches from outside to advance their work onto the next level.

After a final treat of oven baked pizza on our last afternoon, we decided to eat a little way into the journey down towards Lusaka, and put a few miles on the clock. We only managed to get a few hours in before darkness descended, but it meant that the journey down the following day would be quick and easy, and that we should arrive at a decent hour. We still had the issue of having neither passed through immigration or customs, and thus we would have to contend with that there. We hoped it wouldn’t pose too much of a problem, but as it was, we had to stay in Lusaka for the weekend, and sort out our various issues on the Monday. After some confusion, a couple of heated discussions, and long long waits, we eventually had both our passports and carnet stamped, and could continue onwards to Zimbabwe, where we would be visiting the Goromonzi Project, in the capital, Harare.

The Invisible Border

After studying our paper maps and GPS for quite some time, it suddenly dawned on me that we could in fact avoid going the long way round, through Lilongwe and Lusaka, and instead cut across into Zambia, via Rumphi. We had planned to research the possibility of crossing this border as an international, but having failed to do so, went with the 'well lets just go and find out' approach.

At first, all seemed well, the road, by African standards, was okay, and the GPS seemed to be picking up a direct route to the border. Things began to get a little bit worrying, however, when the road began to narrow, and soon disappeared into little more than a cycle path. We ploughed on. At one point the road/path had collapsed, and it was only after a local lady shouted at us that we realised we could take an even narrower path around it. We were intrigued to see what kind of border post laid in wait for us, and soon we found out.

'We're in Zambia!' Phil's exclamation from the passenger seat came as a result of our GPS informing us that we had crossed the border. We looked at each other, and then the map, and then the road ahead, and conceded to continuing until the first town to access our situation. As we approached the first town, still there was no sign of a border. We asked around a few confused locals, and were eventually instructed to return back the way we came in search of the Malawian immigration. After, a relatively short but frustrating drive back to the 'border', we managed to locate the Malawian immigration on our GPS, and soon we were approaching it from the wrong side.

There was a barrier, and a small hut, and a few young men, and the remnants of a flag. After informing the young men that we were in fact leaving Malawi, and not entering it, we waited inside the semi-abandoned building for the immigration officer to arrive. The process once he did arrive was very straight forward, and after talking him through the Carnet, we were on our way out of Malawi and into Zambia for the second time of the day. We still had no idea where we could be stamped into Zambia, but again conceded to the idea of driving further in, and seeing what happened. It was preferable to a long and frustrating journey back along the cycle path, and plus, we were out of Malawi now, we didn't really have another option.

Again we headed back towards the 'border' town, and this time bumped into someone saying he was the immigration officer. We headed back with him to a small office, and after informing him of our situation, he made a phone call to the 'man with the stamp'. Unfortunately, the 'man with the stamp' was in Lusaka, and thus we couldn't have either our passports or our carnet stamped here. He did, however, offer to write us a letter to present to the immigration office in Zambia's first 'major' town, ensuring that we didn't get into trouble for entering the country illegally. We were happy that this had sorted any potential problems, and were keen to get back on the road towards Isoka, approximately four hours away.

Believe it or not, that was just the start of our problems. After driving a short distance further towards Isoka, the car suddenly cut out, and refused to restart. It was awful timing, and although it didn't seem to be a major issue, it would delay things a day at least. We were lucky, again, in finding a nearby 'bush' mechanic, and after a night spent in the car, we were heading off again. Unfortunately, we didn't get very far, until the problems returned yet again, and to add to this problem we were critically low on petrol, and due to election fever, there was none around. All fuel in this area was black market, but everyone had run dry. It left us with a dilemma. We were broken down on the side of a road, with no fuel, and only a bush mechanic. We eventually decided to head off in search of fuel, and after Phil's missions to the nearby towns failed, I jumped on the back of a lorry for the four hour journey to Isoka.

I was lucky, in that the lorry was being driven by our bush mechanic friend, and thus I got a seat up front. I was, however, unfortunate in that the Lorry was going to Isoka to have some work carried out on its suspension, and thus each bump in the road was ever increasingly painful. When I eventually arrived, however, I was relieved not only to find fuel, but also a place showing the first day of the football premier league season. It had been a long day, and the lorry wouldn't be heading back until the following afternoon. After finding the cheapest hotel in town, I retired to spending the day in front of the tv screen, enjoying the football.

The day got even better when I received a phone call from Phil, who by chance had bumped into Harrisson, a Zambian guy working on a road construction project. He had agreed to tow phil and our car all the way to Isoka (approx 200 miles), and thus I wouldn't need catch a ride back, also it meant that we could find a slightly more qualified mechanic to get the car ship shape once more. It was a huge relief, and we owe a massive debt of gratitude to both Harrisson and his driver. Several hours later, and just as the Arsenal game had kicked off (I got to watch Villa anyway), a men named Harrisson entered the bar, and told me that Phil was with the car just outside town. The car had made it all the way, but just a couple of miles short, there was a steep hill, and his car didn't have the power to tow ours up it, and into Isoka. We headed back with the petrol to see if it would start, and when it didn't, it was another quick call to Mike (our bush mechanic), who caught a taxi out to us, and within half an hour we were pulling up outside our lodgings for the night.

The following day, we managed to find two local mechanics who set about getting the car back on the road. It was our hope that as long as we could get to Mpika (a slightly bigger town), then we could get it properly fixed up there, and then continue onwards. It worked. After half a days work, and a five or six hour drive, we stuttered into Mpika. The car had just started to show signs of not being altogether well, and we were relieved to have made it. It was late, and so after dinner we went straight to bed. The following morning we located a local mechanic, and after a couple of days work, we were ready to get back on the road once more. We still weren't officially in Zambia, and had seen no sign of an immigration or customs office, but with time ticking away, we headed straight for Kasanka, and our partner organisation 'The Kasanka Trust'.

New 'Making of: Real Way Down documentary (Part 12 - Egypt)'

Coming courtesy of the Phillip Wright kitchen of video dreams...

Making of : Real Way Down documentary (Part 12 - Egypt) from Patchwork World on Vimeo.

Expand in Malawi

The drive down to Malawi was completely painless, and went without a hitch. We crossed the border with considerable ease on the Sunday morning, and after stopping off for lunch quickly, we headed straight towards Nkhata Bay, and our partner charity ‘Expand’. The journey once more was incredible, with Lake Malawi in full view as we climbed mountains, and evaded road side baboons. The road surfaces were good, and it wasn’t long before we were in Mzuzu, and it was time to veer off the main road towards the Chisala School.

Mr Banda was roadside waiting for us, as the roads went from tarmac to dust track, and after a short, and quite incredible drive through the mountains we spotted him. Chisala school had been funded, and supported by the ‘Build Malawi’ project in 2008, in conjunction with ABC (Action for the Benefit of Children). Tanya Clarke, who has been my contact person, was the Project Manager, and now she has developed the NGO ‘Expand’ to help continue the work of the initial project.

In essence, what the Build Malawi project did, in 2008, was to assist the local community, in an extremely poor and remote area of Malawi, to build a new government primary school. It was commented to us on several occasions how difficult it had been before for some children, especially the younger ones, to get to school, as not only did they have to walk between five to ten miles each day, but also the rainy season complicated things further, with many paths blocked. As a result of this, often children didn’t begin school until the age of 8 or 9, or even older, and indeed many didn’t come at all. The difficulties in this respect had meant that very few members of the community had a chance to directly observe the benefit of school, and with very small numbers going on to secondary education, their reservations were understandable.

Now, admittedly, we struggled a little bit at first, to fully understand and decipher the issues facing the community before, and the benefit now. The school was remarkably built, with solar panels powering everything, from the water pump, which gave a good clean water supply, to the electricity, which wasn’t a given in several other schools. The hygiene levels were good, and with a fully stocked library, the project had definitely succeeded in building an excellent environment for learning. The questions we had, however, were based upon the issue of walking to school. Both Phil and myself walked to our primary schools, and in my case certainly the school was far from perfect. We had some classrooms in temporary trailers, the school was very often vandalised, teacher shortages meant we had to combine year groups, and the general atmosphere was pretty drab. We did, however, have computers, and resources, and more than enough teaching aids. It seemed, in perhaps the same way that religious buildings are often ludicrously over elaborate, that perhaps their was far too much attention on the building in which we learn, and not the depth of the learning itself.

Phil and myself began to discuss this issue. It sat uncomfortably with us both, and we weren’t quite sure what to make of it. Had our grandparents been here to here the complaints about walking to school, they would have given them a good kick up the back side, and told them to get on with . This isn’t of course the beginning and end of my opinion. I am by no means suggesting that they are making a fuss over nothing. It was just the method. Would it not be possible to spend money on a cycle to school scheme, supplying bikes and supervisors to assist younger children. How about some other form of public transport? Would it be possible to fund roaming libraries, to supplement schools in a certain area? My mind was running, and then it clicked.

What Chisala School does, simply, is give pride to a community. It becomes (perhaps like a church), the focus point of a village, and something they look up to. It gives an inherent importance towards education (like perhaps religion), and helps to encourage parents and children alike to make full use of it. It has reaped positive results, and some, very few, but some have gone on to secondary education, and thus the community can directly see the tangible benefits of education. It is a young project, and maybe after a few generations, the change it has brought will be even more apparent, but already it seems that perhaps education, and knowledge are becoming valued entities. I hate to continue this rather self fulfilling analogy too much, but perhaps education, like religion in the past, is becoming the focus and the foundations of rural African society. I myself am agnostic, and see little reward in organised religion. Perhaps over the coming years, we will see the church buildings turned into schools, and education, knowledge, intelligence, and wisdom, will replace religion as the key component of progression and development. Personally, I hope so.

So, in the end we left semi-satisfied, not with the project itself, which was excellent. The initial building process, and the manner in which it was carried out was incredibly amicable. Community involvement was extremely high, creating a collaborative effort between donor and beneficiary. The pride of the community had been enhanced by this, and also the progression of the school, with new toilet blocks, sports fields, vegetable plots etc, were a direct result of this approach. I am confidant that this approach with ‘Expand’ will continue to aid the progression of education, helping it to further become of core importance within rural communities in Africa. The issues, and there are issues, are largely on the higher, deeper, and more long-term level.

Again we see an issue with the progression of children from primary to secondary education. I don’t know the statistics exactly, but I would say, from my experience that it is not even nearly 10%, certainly in rural areas, and this is really poor. It’s not just in Malawi, but in several countries we have passed through. Secondary education in the UK, and I presume much of Europe is compulsory, but many children even with an incredible urge to study, and with good levels of achievement at primary school, simply are not able to go. It’s depressing. I would quite happily tomorrow, kick out every half-arsed English secondary school student (of which I was one) out of their schools and replace them with these children, in my opinion to the benefit of everyone. This of course isn’t an overly progressive solution, but a solution all the same. Knee-jerk reactions aside, more does need to be done, and certainly more of a focus on secondary education is desperately in need.

After this project, at the end of September, I will begin work with EEF, who I spoke about previously, and who do aid children with secondary education. Their model is simple. It is a simple expansion of one man’s faith and inspiration, from one boy’s struggle and potential. IT could so easily (relatively), be employed as a concept in other countries, and indeed other areas of Ethiopia. The only other large, and established project, I am personally aware of, is the Starehe Schools in Nairobi, which again I have already talked about. It is understandable, sure, that initial focus, in respect to education in Africa, was one of ‘lets please get these poor, rag bearing, muddy faced children into a school’, but that is simply not it anymore. We have become, or at least are becoming to view Africa, and Africans as the equals that they are. No longer is it enough to help quash our guilt by helping them to speak English, giving them a place to make friends and to act like children, and perhaps enabling employment in the tourism sector. It is about time that the charity sector, grew some balls, and realised that it is now, that these children deserve the opportunities that we all have. Not, to go to primary school, and then surrender to a life of subsistence farming, or to learn English and enter the proverbial bull ring of tourism, but to be allowed to dream, and have at least a small chance of achieving them.

I’m an idealist, true, but not an unconsidered ‘lets change the world now’ idealist, but rather one who believes that only be starting with the end goal in sight will it ever be achieved. Models like EEF, enable a few (approximately 40) girls and boys, each year to get the secondary education they deserve, which includes the resources and the environment to study at home. It’s not a huge amount, but the focus on the most vulnerable and highest achieving segment of society enables the impact to be much larger, and the success rights after six years have proved this. Now, three of their students have gone on to achieve full scholarships at what is arguably the most resource rich, and progressive further education facility in the world, the New York University, in Dubai. All of the other students to complete the process have gone on to further education, and another couple recived offers from American Universities. It’s a start, but at least it’s a completed vision. It is now up to the individual students, and the governments of the countries to take things a step further.

The Ethiopian government, like many others take control over further education to a ludicrous extent. In Ethiopia, you don’t get to choose your field of study (unless of course daddy is rich), and 70 % of all students are forced to study Engineering. You could call it shortsighted, but it’s an awful lot more than that, it’s outright stupidity. A nation’s progress is achieved by; writers, scientists, philosophers, musicians, sportsmen, engineers, politicians, doctors, nurses, psychologists, and many more credible professionals. How is a nation of Engineers going to successfully aid development, with the support of privileged politicians looting more of their natural resources? It makes no sense. In Zambia, I saw an advert for applying to University, in which it stated that a non-refundable fee of $60 was needed with the application, regardless of whether the application is successful or not. Now, most Zambians can’t afford $60, let alone the course fees that they would be left with if they were successful.

So, in essence, in an attempt to cut short a potentially never-ending barrage of ranting, there are several things that need to be addressed. Firstly NGOS, charities, volunteer organisations, aid workers etc need to, on a much higher level, have real change in mind. It is no longer enough to gently push people in the right direction. We are here, that much is concrete. We are here, because currently we live in an overly privileged society, and others the opposite. We are not here as a colonial presence, or because we know better, but because we are offering a hand of support to others, who often through no fault of their own, currently need it. But that hand of support needs to come from a strong arm, with a strong mind, and a will to attribute to real change. It needs to be willing to fight to achieve goals, and to stand up to any obstacles that stand in their way. It also needs to aim to one day be able to let go, and this should be a part of the process from the start. The second thing is much more complex, but not altogether impossible. Governments need to be pushed, they need to be prodded, their doors need to be worn thin where knuckles have knocked against them. Communities need to be supported in this, and encouraged to stand up for their rights. Ex-pats (as they are rather anarchically referred to), also have a responsibility to stand up to the powers that, whilst they are living and working in such countries, represent them also. Corruption, greed, selfishness, ignorance, and elitism are not accepted aspects of African politics; they are a vile intoxication, which can be eradicated.

Another key approach, which I have not yet mentioned is that of cooperation. The concept of ‘Patchwork World’ and the ‘Real Way Down’ project, were built on the foundations of the word. The ability for organisations to work together to achieve shared visions and goals is of upmost importance. It provides steps of progression and development, and can thus successfully see the impact climb from the minimum to the maximum. Each and every charity that supports a community, is merely a step on a ladder. The only way real change, and real progression can be achieved is by combining this step with further steps. Some make up rungs on the ladder, and others support to hold it up, and to aid the ascent. Charities need to work together, not only to increase the scope of their influence, but also to discover where the gaps lie, and thus create a full picture, a jigsaw, with pieces missing.

Anyway, regardless of all the above, the scenery had turned Phil into the happiest man alive!

Futuresense in Tanzania

After a comfortable nights sleep, it was an early start, and a 45-minute morning stroll to the ‘Futuresense’ head office, where we met with Sarah, the country manager. We promptly had a meeting to discuss the programme for the following three days, and decided that we would spend two filming in Arusha, and one in the Pare Mountains, on our way back cross country to meet the road down to Malawi. Initial thoughts were extremely positive, and Sarah was really great and accommodating to our needs. Immediately, I felt a sense that ‘Futuresense’ had very much moved in a positive direction since I had last encountered their work, seven years previously.

Our first port of call was to visit a team of Durham University students who were on a volunteer-tourism break. This included 4-days climbing Kilimanjaro, a weeks rest in Zanzibar, two weeks volunteering with Futuresense, at two separate projects, and finally a 4-day safari. Now I, like most people who see themselves as more long-term development workers, have often questioned the impact, or indeed the benefit of short-term volunteering. I did it in Tanzania in 2004, and I had to think long (still thinking), and hard about the intent, benefit, and indeed necessity for such an experience. I do, however, believe I am in a good position to argue in favour, as it catalysed a great passion in myself to continue with such work, and in truth helped to inspire this project.

As Sarah stated to us very strongly in her interview, volunteering is not always good, and indeed can at times even be detrimental. The importance lay very much in the management, and the understanding of an organisation to place people at suitable projects. Short-term volunteers (2 weeks or less) were most likely to be placed on building projects, where some good old elbow grease could really create positive results and fast. The team of Durham students were a fine example of how many hands can really make a fast and positive impact. They were working at a primary school, and an orphanage, and they were all motivated by the fact that they could, even in just two weeks, leave a truly positive mark on a community.

In addition to building projects, Futuresense helps with the supply of volunteer teachers. These can both be young, and inexperienced, who would teach primary and pre-primary, and qualified teachers, who would teach in government schools. Again, with a chronic shortage of funding, and a lack of teachers, both approaches can really make a positive addition to the local teaching staff. On the negative side, as was pointed out by Sarah, it is difficult to maintain a consistency in this respect. It is hard to ensure that a school always has support, and thus is difficult to implement regularity in the child’s education. A solution to this is not easy, as it is difficult to ensure both quality and long-term teachers. The only real answer lies in the individuals, and a motivation for trained teachers to commit to full years (or more), of voluntary teaching. Perhaps with more funding, these volunteers could be supported financially, and this would act as a further incentive to them.

Finally, Futuresense supports micro-finance business proposals, based on the fact that in Africa, a little can go a long way. Just $50-100 can facilitate an individual to set up a small business, helping to bring extra income into the household. These grants were often given to women, although not exclusively, and in this respect also helped to empower women within the community. We have seen on so many occasions now, how this can truly be a catalyst towards great community development. Within these societies, women really gain a huge amount of pride and confidence, by being able to provide for their family. Some of the projects we visited included Chicken breeding, restaurants, and shops, and all had seemingly become successes, at their own relative levels. It is a true example of a little going a long way.

After two days filming several programmes in Arusha, we headed out of Arusha, and firstly to the ‘Nice Orphans Centre’, just outside the city. This was truly a sign of a grassroots community initiative, and clearly the volunteers who had been placed there had made a huge impact. All of the ladies talked about past volunteers, with huge smiles on their faces, and although this was a project still with a long way to go, it was great to see a community, with just a little helping hand, reaching out to support those with nothing. We donated a few books, clothes, and school uniforms to them, which had kindly been donated to us, and again it was a sign of how a little can go a long way. With just a little support, be it financial, through volunteers, building, or indeed equipment, this small, community driven orphan centre, could help to transform the lives of so many. It is also again, an example of the importance of cooperation, as with the support of other such organisations, so much more could be achieved in the future.

Next it was time to wave goodbye to our fantastic community guide, Sam, and head onwards to the Pare Mountains, where we would be visiting ‘Urafiki Usangi’, another business programme set up and supported by Futuresense. Kate, an accounts manager back in the UK, had been volunteering there for approximately two months, and was driven by using her expertise to assist the project. The road up to the home-stay where Kate was based, and where we would spend the night, was interesting to say the least. It was a winding road up the side of the mountain, passing through villages, and blessing us with unbelievable views all around. Eventually the road steepened massively, and at one point, after three attempts, Phil, and an unknown helper, even had to give the car a little encouraging push. After, a huge amount of anxiety, and with the clutch giving off a familiar scent, we made it up the mountain, and to the wonderful home, where we would regret only having time to spend one night.

After, an early night, we ventured down to the village, where the workshop was located, and met the local manager, as well as the two young and talented sewers. The project produced a selection of great products, including laptop cases, iphone cases, bags, purses, and other such items. Currently the products are largely sold to volunteers both in the Pare Mountains, and at the Arusha HQ, but plans are to increase marketing to a wider audience. Kate had spent much of her time sorting out the accounts, and putting a financially viable plan into action, and had also focussed a lot of time and attention on quality control. They were hopeful of targeting the more high-end tourist sector, and thus it was important to produce good quality products on a constant basis. I was so impressed by the products, that I purchased myself a great little Iphone case, and placed an order for a laptop case, to be hand delivered by Kate, back in London. This project not only helps to give employment to young women in the Pare Mountains, but also has huge potential to grow into a scheme, which could help to fund future Futuresense initiatives. Kate was a fine example of how specific expertise, utilised in the right way, can really offer a great deal to a developing community, and again, a relatively short stay can make huge impacts.

As time was getting on, we had to wave goodbye to Kate and the girls, and head onwards towards Malawi. My lasting impression of Futuresense, in Tanzania at least, was that under the management of Sarah, they were making hugely positive strides. It cemented my opinion that volunteering was a part of development, which with careful and experienced management could be hugely rewarding. It is very possible for volunteer placements to be both pointless and detrimental, however there is also a great potential for them to work. I would encourage any individual looking to volunteer abroad to do so, but also to ensure that they set themselves realistic goals, and truly make the most of their time, to ensure a positive impact on both themselves and the community in which they are placed.

Back in Pangani!

After a brief ferry crossing to Mombassa's southside, we were on the road to the Tanzanian border, and Pangani. My nerves obviously passed onto the vehicle, and with Tanzania only 20 miles away, the electrics blew, and we grinded to a halt. Once again, however, luck was on our side, and somehow in the middle of nowhere, we had broken down 20 yards short of a makeshift roadside sign, saying 'Mechanic Services'. After a push down to the makeshift garage, which was simply a yard, next to a half built house, Edward began an assesment of the vehicle. It was dark, and getting late, so we decided to camp in the yard, and cycled into town to buy some fish and potatoes, which one of Edward's assistant's cooked up for us.

The following day, we had to catch a matatu (small bus) into a town approximately 30 miles away to purchase some replacement cable, and then head back to begin the repair. It wasn't too long before the car was up and running again, and with the light fading, we decided to hit the road. The electrics weren't altogether right, and we now had no functional speedometer, fuel gauge, or battery light. We did, however, have a car that served its purpose, and for now that was enough. We set off expecting to find the border closed, and had planned to cross early the next morning. When we arrived, however, it was very much open, and so we decided to press on towards Pangani, with the aim of arriving there by arround 11pm.

As we passed through Tanga, the closest city to Pangani, I tried desperately to scout my memory banks for familiarity, but found none. We then headed down the dirt track towards Pangani, and it brought back memories from seven years previous, when I had ventured down the same road in a dala dala (small bus), and where I had experienced my first taste of Africa. We arrived into Pangani late, and in the darkness the town was barely recognisable. There were hundreds of new brick houses, a tarmac road, shops, restaurants, and numerous other new developments. My barings were confused by one of the major landmarks (an area of grass), having turned into a residential street, and after half an hour of being unsure, finally we asked the patrolling police vehicle, and were directed to the Yoeza household. It turned out I had directed us just one house short, and when I saw Mama, and entered the yard, all familiarity came rushing back.

I had promised 7 years ago that one day I would return, and it is important to me to always keep a promise. It had been a lot longer than I had first hoped, and imagined, but once more I was in Pangani, and with the Yoeza family. Mama was the same, and although the house had been improved it was very much like how I remembered it. Me and Phil took residence in my old room, and after Rich (Mama's son, who had been 14 last time, and was now 21), popped in to say hello, we all headed off to bed. Both Rich and Mama were the same as I remembered. Rich was of course older, and taller, but he still had the same manner, which I had liked so much before. It felt good to be back, and I was excited to explore the following day.

The next day we woke early, and after breakfast headed to see my old haunt, 'Pangedeco'. I had spent many an afternoon, reading or socialising there, and had half expected to find it unaltered. It was, however, unrecognisible, closed down, and overgrown. It was sad to see, but in truth it had been semi-neglected even when I was there. We soon discovered that there was a nice new campsite, bar, and restaurant just next door, and tourists weren't falling over each other, but neither was it 'dead' like all tourist resorts had been 7 years previously. Similarly, the beach was no longer completely deserted, with a few tourists exploring. It felt strange. In the two months I had previously spent there, I had seen only two tourists. Now, there was at least five times that number, and some even ventured into the town itself. It wasn't the stuff of my nightmares, but it was a small step towards it.

That night, I had to think. It was confusing. It was development. I had seen it with my own eyes. New houses, improved infrastructure, road networks, shops, restaurants, general living conditions, but somehow, somewhere it also seemed to have lost a little of it's soul. Although I had bumped into a few old friends, many more had moved on, and a high percentage of the new residents had arrived from the island of Pemba, bringing with them a whole new character to the town. It was nice, and they were lovely people, but it was different, and I didn't know how to feel about that. Pangani had changed form a poor fishing town, to what I can only describe as a soon to be thriving coastal destination. It had a new island feel, and I sensed very much that tourism, both international and local, would soon be abundant in the area. It was a good thing, it was progression. I simply had to get over my cynicism, and reluctance to embrace such a sector as wholly positive devlopment.

I had an issue with tourism in Africa. It's not a wholly justified one, but it was there all the same. Rich, who had impressed me so much with both his level of intelligence and character was now working as a waiter in a safari lodge, and it was good, it was work, an income, a livelihood, but it was also a service - a service to rich, and largely western tourists. If Pangani did become the resort town I half expected it too, it would no longer have that sense of the 'real' that I fell in love with. Tourism tended to create a rather unpleasant, competitive, and often invasive nature amongst people, it seemed to widen rather than reduce the gap between the natives and the outsiders. I hated every time I was approached as a tourist anywhere in Africa. It was an extension of the 'begging' culture. I wanted to scream 'I am here as a human being, as someone you can befriend, and talk to, not as a an outsider taking a peek into your difficult, but somehow enviable world.' It is unfair, I know, my opinion is massively flawed, but it was also massively real. It made me look forward and crave for the day that i learn to speak good enough Swahili, Amharic, Lua etc to not be seen as one of the outsiders anymore. I understood how important tourism was to the economy of many Africa countries, but even more so it reminded me of how important a conscious and ethical approach was to its development. It was the responsibility of both tour companies, resorts, and the tourists themselves to make the sector a positive one, bringing people together, and not reinstating that horrible presence of master and servant, that so deeply sickened me.

Ranting aside, we spent a lovely couple of days in Pangani, exploring both sides of the river, and catching up with old friends. Thomas (Mama's older son) had returned from Arusha, especially to see me, and although he was barely recognizable both physically and mentally, it was great to see him again. We had formed a special bond on my last visit, and although it didn't immediately click back and that familiarity was almost completely lacking, it certainly was important to me to see him again after so long. After our third night, Phil, Rich, Thomas, and myself jumped in the car together to head to Arusha, and for us our partner charity 'Futuresense'. I had volunteered with them (then 'Mondo Challenge') seven years previously, and so in a way it was my experience with them that had inspired the 'Real Way Down' itself. I had some negative preconceptions from my previous experience, but had observed a great deal of progression online, and hoped that this too would be recognizable on the ground.

After dropping Rich off in a town en route, to catch his bus back to work, and Thomas off at home, we met up with Gady, the elder son of the family we would be staying with in Arusha, and headed to our homestay. A lovely house on the outskirts of the city, we had the luxury of a comfortable bed each, and this would be crucial with a busy week ahead.